John Tanasychuk, restaurant critic at the Sun Sentinel, recently gave Kitchenetta two out of four stars. Here are some excerpts from what he had to say:

Floors are polished concrete. Walls and ceiling are concrete. So is it any wonder you can't hear much of anything, except for the very loud music?

The complimentary, thin, crisp-around-the-edges bread that comes from the wood oven is incredible and it sets our hopes high for the pizza. But Napolitano pizza ($15) with capers, anchovy, tomato sauce and oregano is over-sauced to the point that everything slides off the sodden crust.

The best appetizer we sampled was a big plate of broad beans ($12) in a spicy sauce. An order of these beans and that complimentary bread would make a terrific meal.

A rib eye ($28) was supposed to be served in a spicy sauce, but didn't pack any heat. The best thing about the steaks were the accompanying roasted potatoes with rosemary, which are available as a side dish ($8 single; $15 family).

Very good ricotta cheesecake ($9) was studded with pine nuts and blond raisins.

For the complete review and more, visit www.sun-sentinel.com/entertainment/restaurants. You can also read John's blog at SunSentinel.com/sup and follow him on Twitter.com @FloridaEats.

 

2850 N. Federal Highway, Fort Lauderdale

954-567-3333

Kitchenetta.com

Italian cuisine

Cost: moderate to expensive

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